I just cut out my customized t-shirt pattern, and realize that I made a big mistake. Not with the cutting, but with the fabric. Because I didn’t want to risk using expensive material on this test project, I pulled something from my stash.

What was I thinking?! I should have tested it first to determine its stretch rating. Most t-shirt patterns are designed for “moderate stretch” knits, and clearly this stash fabric doesn’t fit the bill.

If only I had used the Stretch Ruler handout I give my sewing students! (Download a free copy here.) Trying to eyeball a knit fabric is a bad idea. Most knits look alike from a distance. Without testing the gauge, there is no guarantee that even an expertly sewn garment will fit and perform properly.

So now the question before me is: do I sew THIS shirt, if for no other reason than curiosity? Or do I pitch it, run to the fabric store, and buy something else? Stay tuned for the answer…

Now I’m on my own to explore the Pattern Master pattern drafting software in greater depth. It’s very cozy here, sitting in the back corner of the CQ studio. Lots of lively activity around me at the cutting tables. The studio windows are open, sun is streaming in, and the whoosh of the Powow River adds a soothing background sound, setting the perfect tone for creative contemplation. Ah…spring!

There are many sections within the software, with lots to choose from: Wild Things (fun play stuff), Child’s Play (baby and kids’ clothing), Tailor-Made (for men), Curves (undergarments and swimwear), Celebrations (bridal and special events), and Boutique (women’s wear). Since I plan to make myself a T-shirt, I click “Boutique.”

Before proceeding further, I create a profile for myself by plugging in my measurements. Hmm…I didn’t come prepared with my front and back “slope.” No worries: when I leave them blank, the software calculates them for me based on my other measurements. Next, I click the “Garment” tab and then the “Blouses” category. Wow, huge selection here, but no time to browse or dally. I’m on a mission to sew the perfect T-shirt.

Ah, here’s the T-shirt category. Wow, even more choices: sleeve length, neckline style. etc. I settle on a short (not cap) sleeve and curved V-neckline. Next, I click the “Settings” tab and customize the type of fit I want. In off-the-shelf patterns, the amount of ease — how closely or loosely a garment fits — is predetermined. With this software, I can tweak the fit to satisfy my own preferences. Since I don’t want a super-fitted shirt, I change the software’s default ease from 2.5″ for a fitted T to 3″. While I’m at it, I add an extra 2″ to the overall length to make sure the hemline hits just above my hip. (Most RTW T-shirts are too short for my liking.)

At this point, I believe there aren’t any other elements I want to customize, so I save the settings and click the tab to see a summary of my changes before printing the actual pattern. Very interesting! [Photo to come: Screen shot showing default settings versus my customized variations.]

In my next post: Printing the pattern and comparing it to my favorite RTW shirt.]

Greetings, CQ members and friends. For the next several weeks I’ll be blogging about my experiences with Crafters Quarters’ awesome pattern drafting software. While many of you folks think of CQ as a place for creating all sorts of fiber arts and mixed media projects, it’s also a phenomenal resource for those who sew clothing and home dec items: huge cutting tables, dress forms, sewing machines, and of course this software used by the fashion industry to create clothing lines for women, men, and children.

Like most people, my measurements don’t match the ones used by the ready-to-wear (RTW) industry. For example, most women’s garments are designed for ladies with a B-cup bust, and a height of around 5′4″. Darts — if they exist at all — rarely point to the apex of the bust, and the overall length is either too short or too long. No wonder we don’t look as good in our clothing as we could! And good looks aside, there’s the matter of comfort. Did you ever wonder why it’s often hard to move your arms in a low-priced t-shirt? It’s because on RTW tees, the back and the front armhole shapes are the same, rather than deeper in back. Without that extra depth, you get that locked-in feeling. (And you thought it was all in your head!)

So today, I am sitting in front of a computer with Jensi Rogers at my side. She’s walking me through the process of setting up an account and plugging in my measurements. Not just the usual bust, waist and hips, but also a slew of additional body specs that will hopefully make the final pattern we print out match my body rather than some NYC waif-model who would look good in anything — even a potato sack.

Keep tuned in to read my updates as I complete the “drafting” process and then move on to cutting. If you’d like to be alerted to when new posts are made, feel free to follow my Tweets. You can send me a question or comment there and I’ll try to respond here on the blog.

And now…back to the computer!

Don’t Miss Your Chance to Take An Exclusive Quilt Lovers’ Tour of England

Last Two Days to Register and Reserve Your Spot!  (Deadline to Register: January 10)

Have you been thinking about taking the trip of a lifetime to England and seeing some of the world’s greatest quilting treasures? Think no more–the time to register is now, if you don’t want to miss this trip!

Join your fellow quilt lovers for an indulgent tour and see:

One of the oldest quilts in existence, the 14th century Tristan quilt, on one of its rare public displays…

The first quilt exhibition at the storied Victoria & Albert Museum in over 20 years…

Jane Austen’s own beloved city of Bath…

The Globe Theatre in Stratford-Upon-Avon…

The only quilt museum in Britain, York’s Quilt Museum and Gallery…

This is a tour like no other. Join us on our spring trip to England, enjoying all the sights a quilt lover would like to see, as well as many of the must-see spots for all travelers in this exclusive tour, just for the New England Quilt Museum.

This is truly a once in a lifetime opportunity to see England’s quilting treasures. The deadline to register for this trip is January 10.

To register for the trip visit Sew Many Places’ website.

The New England Quilt Museum

18 Shattuck Street

Lowell, MA 01852

Oh my goodness — look at these!

During the Topsfield Fair we met a wonderful woman — Gail — with 3 heirloom machines — all owned and passed within one family.  She will soon be moving to a small place, though, and can’t take them with her!  Gail wants to make sure they go to loving homes with people that respect just how beautiful the machines are.  Take a peek at the detail work and how well kept these lovelies are…

Interested?  Just write to Gail to learn more:  gshphd@verizon.net.  She has priced these similarly to those that have sold through eBay, but you don’t have to pay for shipping.

(Crafters Quarters is not taking any commission from these sales, we’d just like to see someone love these machines with the care they’re used to getting from their former family.)

1952 Singer Featherweight 221-1

(yes you read that correctly — an adorable, working Featherweight!)

Serial number AL011325 — in working order with case, attachments, and manual.  Heirloom owned by one family.  Asking $350.

1928 Singer 66-6 electric

Serial number AC021052 — in working order in cabinet with attachments and manual.  Heirloom owned by one family.  Asking $250.

1900 Singer Antique Treadle model #27

Serial number N466772 — 5 drawer oak cabinet.  Heirloom owned by one family.  Asking $200.